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Verkackte Weihnachten in Katalonien?

Nikolo? Fehlanzeige. Christkind? Auch nicht. Weihnachtsmann? Bestenfalls eine unvermeidliche Geißel der Globalisierung. Weihnachten in Katalonien ist ganz anders als wir es kennen, und wunderbar einzigartig.

Caga tió …

Der Tió de Nadal ist ein drolliger Zeitgenosse: ein Holzscheit mit aufgemaltem Gesicht, der sich unter einer Decke versteckt und in der Adventszeit von katalanischen Kindern umsorgt und gefüttert wird. Und wir alle wissen ja was passiert, wenn man zu Weihnachten viel zu viel gegessen hat: man muss ganz dringend kacken! So geht’s auch dem tió. Doch weil Weihnachten ist und dann Wunder passieren, „kackt“ er Geschenke!

Die zugrundeliegende Tradition stammt noch aus vorchristlicher Zeit und heutzutage ist es aus dem Weihnachtsbrauchtum nicht mehr wegzudenken. Es werden Lieder gesungen, um den tió zu beschwören: er möge uns turró geben, eine picksüße Nascherei mit Mandeln und Pinienkernen, aber bitte keine Sardinen, denn die sind viel zu salzig. Heutzutage ist turró zwar immer noch eine traditionelle Weihnachtssüßigkeit, aber unter der Decke des tió verstecken sich zuweilen auch größere Geschenke wie Spielsachen, Bücher, oder sogar ein Fahrrad! Meine liebe Freundin M. hat mittlerweile Architektur studiert und kennt sich demnach mit Dimensionen aus, aber sie ist sich immer noch nicht ganz sicher, wie das damals unter die Decke des tió passen konnte … Naja, Weihnachtswunder gibt es eben überall!

Wenn der tió aber nichts hergeben will, dann wird weiter gesungen und er bekommt Schläge bis er, ja, bis er „kackt“ und die Geschenke unter der Decke herauspurzeln …

Caganer …

Weihnachtskrippen kennen wir alle. In Katalonien heißen sie pessebres und sind ebenso traditionell wie überall anders auch, doch irgendwo zwischen Ochs und Esel, Engeln und Hirten, Maria und Josef und dem Jesuskind versteckt sich eine ganz besondere Figur: der Caganer, der „Scheißer“.

In seiner traditionellsten Form ist das die Figur eines Mannes in traditioneller Bauerntracht, mit weißem Leinenhemd und barretina, der roten Mütze, die rein gar nichts mit dem Weihnachtsmann zu tun hat. Nur hockt er irgendwo inmitten dem bukolischen Szenario mit heruntergelassener Hose und verrichtet sein Geschäft!

Ein Skandal! Christliche Werte, die bewusst lächerlich gemacht werden? Mitnichten! Auch der Caganer ist eine Figur, der heidnische Bräuche irgendwie ins Christentum transponiert, so wie bei uns beispielsweise der Osterhase. Er symbolisiert Fruchtbarkeit und den Jahreszyklus: schließlich sind Fäkalien ein guter Dünger, das wusste man seit jeher, und nach dem Winter kommt der Frühling und mit ihm hoffentlich eine gute Ernte!

Heutzutage hat der Caganer in Katalonien quasi Kultstatus erlangt. Neben der traditionellen Figur gibt es diverse Interpretationen … Promis, Sportler, Politiker, alle können Caganers werden, und es gibt durchaus Krippenfigurenhersteller, die jedes Jahr eine neue Serie mit Sammlerwert herausbringen. Und manch ein Tourist steht mit großen Augen in irgendeinem beliebigen Souvenirladen in irgendeiner beliebigen Altstadt und ist sich nicht sicher, ob man sich empören sollte wenn im Schaufenster Angela Merkel neben Donald Trump mit blankgezogenem Hinterteil hockt und kackt, und eine Reihe weiter der spanische König neben Carles Puigdemont und der Fußballer Leo Messi neben dem Popsternchen Rosalía und Darth Vader neben der Queen.

Doch um genau solche potentiellen Missverständnisse aufzuklären sind wir da: wir Reiseleiter von Tramuntana Travel als Kulturbotschafter Kataloniens! Es ist kein Einstellungskriterium aber durchaus wahrscheinlich, dass am 24. Dezember auch der eine oder andere traditionelle oder weniger traditionelle Caganer unter unseren Christbäumen seine Hosen runterlässt!

Verkackte Weihnachten?

Ich habe in diesem Blogbeitrag viel übers Kacken geschrieben und weil zwei Seelen, ach, in meiner Brust wohnen, hat sich die eine, die deutsch(sprachig)e, dabei recht geschämt. Kacken hier, der Scheißer dort, das klingt fürchterlich vulgär … im Katalanischen allerdings weniger. Das Wort cagar – kacken oder scheißen – ist viel weniger Tabu als im Deutschen. Es ist sozusagen ein Fakt des Lebens. Keine katalanische iaia (Omi) regt sich auf darüber, wenn die Kinderlein, egal wie jung, kommen und inbrünstig „caga tió“ – „kack uns was, Holzscheit!“ – singen. Ganz im Gegenteil!

Klingt ziemlich verrückt? Klar … aber das ist doch jede Tradition irgendwie! Ich kann mich jedenfalls noch gut erinnern an die verwirrten Gesichter meiner katalanischen Freundinnen und Freunde, als ich ihnen erklärt habe, dass uns österreichischen Kindern das Christkind die Geschenke bringt: ein blondgelockter Engel, der meist von einem Mädchen dargestellt wird aber Jesus repräsentieren soll, und außerdem unsichtbar ist und manchmal, hinter verschlossenen Türen wo nur die Erwachsenen hin dürfen, mit der Stimme von Mama, Opa oder Tante Renate spricht bis ein Glöcklein läutet und Tante Renate behauptet, sie wäre überhaupt nie dort gewesen? Ja genau …

In diesem Sinne: habt einen schönen Advent, liebe Freundinnen und Freunde der Tramuntana!

Bon nadal! Frohe Weihnachten!

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